The short answer. Provenance research is checking an object's ownership history before you buy it. Ask the seller for the full written history, work backwards one owner at a time, and for each link ask who created the document and whether they had an interest in the sale. Search the stolen-art registers — the Art Loss Register says it holds 700,000 items and charges £85 (plus VAT) for a single search — and, for European art that could have changed hands between 1933 and 1945, the specialist databases for that period. For cars and watches, check the manufacturer's archive and the public vehicle records. Where a gap cannot be filled, price it or walk away.

This guide is the research method: where the records live, what the checks cost and what each one can and cannot tell you. What the resulting documents prove is a separate question, answered in what the paperwork actually proves and the five documents that move price.

Step 1 — Get the seller's written history

Ask for every recorded owner since the object was made, with dates and the document behind each transfer. For pre-1945 European art, ask specifically how the file covers 1933–1945. The seller's file is your starting point and also your first test: a serious seller has it ready; a vague one tells you something.

Step 2 — Work backwards, and grade every link

Start with the current owner and move back. For each transfer, note who created the document:

Who created the documentWhat it isWeight
The sellerA claimLowest — it needs corroboration
An independent third party: auction house, insurer, shipping agent, public registerEvidenceGood
An institution with no interest in the sale: museum, archive, catalogue raisonnéStrong evidenceHighest

Most files become a claim somewhere. That is normal; what matters is knowing exactly where, and pricing it.

Step 3 — Search the registers

The Art Loss Register (ALR). On its own website (read 16 October 2026) the ALR describes itself as the world's largest private database of stolen art, antiques and collectables, with 700,000 items on the database and 450,000 searches a year. Its FAQ says a certificate search checks its own database "which includes the Interpol database" and "six external databases relating to the period 1933-45", followed by specialist research where needed. Two details from the same FAQ are worth knowing before you rely on it:

  • A certificate is usually issued if nothing matches, but "it is not guaranteed".
  • When the ALR checks an auction catalogue or an art fair for the organiser, "no confirmation is issued for an individual item". A lot described as "checked against the ALR" has not produced a certificate in your name.

The Lost Art database. Run by the German Lost Art Foundation, it "documents cultural property expropriated as a result of Nazi persecution, especially from Jewish owners, between 1933 and 1945", plus Second World War losses, through published search requests and found-object reports. Search it for any European work with a gap in that period.

Catalogues raisonnés and exhibition records. Whether a work is recorded at all — and where it has been shown — often settles more than any register.

Worked example: what due diligence costs against what it protects

The ALR's FAQ gives the fees: a single search is £85, €100 or $110, an urgent search (usually answered within one working day if no further research is needed) £300, €350 or $400, and a ten-search annual subscription £700, all plus VAT where applicable. With UK VAT at 20%:

Purchase priceStandard search incl. 20% VAT (£85 × 1.2 = £102)As a share of the price
£2,000£1025.1%
£5,000£1022.0%
£20,000£1020.51%
£50,000£1020.20%

An urgent search is £300 × 1.2 = £360 including VAT — still 0.72% of a £50,000 purchase. If you buy several works a year, the subscription works out at £70 a search before VAT (£700 ÷ 10). Set against the cost of buying something you may later have to return to its rightful owner, the check is small for anything above a few thousand pounds.

Where the records actually live

SourceBest forLimitation
Auction house archives and past cataloguesPublic sale history and descriptionsOnly public sales
Manufacturer archivesWatches and cars: original configurationConfirm the record, not the object in front of you
Marque and model registriesCars: chassis histories, ownership chainsCoverage varies; often volunteer-run
Catalogues raisonnésArt: whether a work is recordedAbsence is not proof of a fake
Exhibition and loan recordsArt: where a work has been, and whenScattered across institutions
Dealer stock booksArt: private transactionsOften unpublished; access by relationship
Insurance and probate valuationsPrivate ownership periodsHeld privately; ask the seller

Public sale records capture only a fraction of transactions; most objects spend most of their lives moving privately. A gap in a public record is normal. The question is whether anything fills it.

Cars and watches: the same method, different records

For a classic car, the strongest provenance document is usually the manufacturer's. Porsche's Classic Technical Certificate, for example, compares the engine and transmission numbers in the car with Porsche's original records ("plus a verification of a match to original records"); other manufacturers run heritage services under their own rules, so ask the marque directly. In the UK, gov.uk's "check the vehicle before you buy it" steps ask you to compare the details you have been given with DVLA's record, check the MOT history, see the V5C log book and check it is not for a stolen vehicle; outstanding finance needs a separate commercial history check. The car-specific detail is in matching numbers and factory documentation and how to inspect a classic car before buying.

For watches, the equivalents are the manufacturer's archive extract, the original guarantee papers and service records — see how to authenticate a luxury watch.

The gaps that should stop a purchase

  1. 1933–1945 in European art, where the object plausibly passed through occupied territory — a legal and ethical exposure, not just a valuation one. See looted art and the Washington Principles.
  2. A gap immediately before the current sale. Recent history should be the easiest to document; if it is the thinnest part of the file, ask why.
  3. A chain that rests entirely on one party's paper. Verify at least one link independently. If none can be verified, you have a story, not a provenance — and how stories get manufactured is in how fakes get past good buyers.
  4. Cultural property from source countries with export or ownership laws. Some objects can be owned but not moved — see objects you can own but cannot move.

Recording what you find

Build a file per object: the documents themselves, a one-page chronology, a list of every source you consulted including the ones that found nothing, and dated photographs. The negative results matter: without them the next buyer, or you in ten years, repeats the same searches. The file you build is the file that sells the object later. Our free provenance checker gives a structured first pass at what a file is missing.

Frequently asked questions

How do I research the provenance of a painting?

Ask the seller for the full written ownership history, work backwards one owner at a time, grade each document by who created it, search stolen-art registers and — for European works that could have changed hands in 1933–1945 — the databases for that period, and check catalogues raisonnés and exhibition records.

How much does an Art Loss Register search cost?

The ALR's FAQ gives £85, €100 or $110 for a single search and £300, €350 or $400 for an urgent search, plus VAT where applicable. A ten-search annual subscription is £700.

Does an Art Loss Register check guarantee clean title?

No. The ALR says a certificate is usually issued when nothing matches but is not guaranteed, and checks it runs on auction catalogues or fairs issue no confirmation for individual items. A register search reduces risk; it does not prove title.

Which provenance gaps should stop a purchase?

A 1933–1945 gap in European art that may have passed through occupied territory, a gap just before the current sale, a chain that rests on one party's paper alone, and cultural property from countries with export or ownership laws.

How do I check a classic car's history before buying?

Ask the manufacturer's heritage department for its records (Porsche's Classic Technical Certificate compares the car's numbers with factory records), follow gov.uk's pre-purchase checks against DVLA data and the V5C in the UK, and run a commercial check for outstanding finance.